I just did some serious dining in Chicago, which has become an absolute food mecca. As good as Girl & the Goat and GT Fish and Oyster, among others, were, I ended up thinking the most about my dinner at Maude’s Liquor Bar. There were several of us, so we split into two tables. We took the “get a little of everything” approach and gave ourselves over to our excellent server to select. We began with steak tartare and pomme frites, an excellent start. Then we moved on to excellent fat mussels and the ribeye, which, despite having already had steak tartare, our server said we must try. She was so right. Accompanied by a Bibb lettuce an creamed corn, the steak was simply heavenly. All this sounds like simple, unremarkable fare, but in fact all of it, simple though it was, was exceptionally well sourced and prepared in such a way as to highlight the simplicity and flavor of the ingredient itself. By the way, our other table took a different, more seafood-y route with equal success. Great wine, great service, great food. That’s all.
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